Last night I got caught by a heavy downpour of rain. I had just paid for my skewer of chicken from the roadside bbq and it came pouring down. I hunkered down under a constructed wooden roof with a long slab of wood to wait it out. The bbq cook pulled his stuff under the little hutch next to me and sat down beside me. Conversation started slowly and I was only thinking about getting back to my room to get some sleep. But, luckily, the rain prevented this from happening. And so it happened that I spoke with Louis for an hour and a half on the Caribbean male culture. The prevalence of marijuana, getting with tourist girls as their daily goal, and interest in money - either to be sponsored to get in to the U.S. or to live an easy life supported by a rich girl. It was an eye opening conversation for me, a cultural translation out of simple honesty.
This morning I searched the town for a tiny soda (food joint) where locals were eating, an indicator that the food is good. So, alongside 2 elderly Caribbean men I slowly ate my breakfast. And the rain began again. My 23-year old waiter grabbed a plate of food and joined me at my table. He, too, talked about the male culture here and the primary goals for many of them: money, weed, girls. His father has 23 children, the most recent one born last year, and is 76 years old. Reynoldo grew up in this lifestyle but chooses to work hard every day, forego the party scene, and do what he is passionate about - surfing. Once again, trapped by the rain under a tin roof for 2 hours, I received an honest perspective of the culture here. I am appreciative for the experiences I have, the glimpses into others' lives, though they are quite different from my own.
I feel like I am hiding out in this bigger town, not sticking out so much as I did in the last one. Preparing for a different adventure. I finally found yoga classes and will attend starting tomorrow. It is Semana Santa here, so 3 million of the 5 million Costa Ricans travel to the beaches along the coasts. I am trying to get out before I am enveloped with busy-ness. I hope to spend a week at Punta Mona, a sustainable farming culture on a nearby island, living communally. It will be fun to try on a different life for awhile :)
Sunday, April 17, 2011
Saturday, April 16, 2011
Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica
I have been thinking about all the things I see here in Costa Rica on a daily basis that don't really phase me but that might be interesting to someone not accustomed to traveling. With my last 3 minutes of Internet time I will share a few.
Babies placed on their mom's bicycle handlebars cruising through town
Squished flat crabs and geckos on the street, shapes obvious
People say "ok" in response to Thank You, not You're Welcome - sometimes I think they don't want me to thank them
Occasionally see a sloth or iguana or monkey right outside the open air restaurants I happen to eat in
Tons of mosquito bites so sleep with a net covering me
Churches with loud music until midnight on all nights of the week, when I walk by there are sometimes disco lights flashing inside - wild dancing and a ruckus!
Off I go, by foot, along the main street with Reggae music blasting and the ocean nearby. Saturday night.
Babies placed on their mom's bicycle handlebars cruising through town
Squished flat crabs and geckos on the street, shapes obvious
People say "ok" in response to Thank You, not You're Welcome - sometimes I think they don't want me to thank them
Occasionally see a sloth or iguana or monkey right outside the open air restaurants I happen to eat in
Tons of mosquito bites so sleep with a net covering me
Churches with loud music until midnight on all nights of the week, when I walk by there are sometimes disco lights flashing inside - wild dancing and a ruckus!
Off I go, by foot, along the main street with Reggae music blasting and the ocean nearby. Saturday night.
Friday, April 15, 2011
Cahuita, Costa Rica
I love the idea of writing a long, detailed blog about my daily happenings. But when it comes down to it, I choose sitting in the hammock by the ocean, though my brain is full of fun stories.
I have been on the Caribbean Coast, in Cahuita, for a few days now. It was a difficult transition from the bliss I found in La Fortuna but I have given the place time in order to settle in a little bit. Several times during the day I hear my thoughts saying, Time to Leave, but then something happens and I remain.
Life is funny here. Rasta vibe. The residents yell out to me every time I pass them, Hey Chica, Que Rica, Pretty Girl, My love, Hola, Mi Amor, and more more more. It is so ridiculous that I smile, sometimes laugh based on what is said, give a sideways glance, a Peace sign, and keep moving on. It works for me. I saw a lady earlier today yell at a man to leave her alone. I am pretty sure that I am enjoying the experience more than her. And so you wonder if I am safe. Oddly, because my response is friendly, it takes the charge out of the verbal advances and I am on easy terms with the people of this town. They like to talk about having Good Vibes here. I feel it...but am also pretty sure it is because of all the weed they are smoking.
I am never pressured or hassled to choose a restaurant, a walking companion, or a tour. Everyone offers to be my guide as they see me walking...in and out of town, along the beach, up and down the streets. Lots of thinking time for me.
This morning I went snorkeling for a couple hours. It was not spectacular compared to my previous experiences but it was ok. Having so much alone time and superficial connections with people is difficult at times. But for some reason I stay here and observe my thoughts and feelings. They are kind of like snorkeling. At times I look around and see something beautiful, am filled with excitement, and follow it around for awhile until I blink and cannot find it again. I search for it, swim faster looking around me while my heart pumps steadily. I see it briefly darting behind a rock but cannot quite seem to ever grasp that shared experience again. So I swim onward, kind of bored, waiting for excitement to grab me again. I look for the boat, think about just quitting, as though no better fish is there. But, alas, I breathe and toodle around - taking my time - and when I blink, a different exotic fish comes into focus. He was there all along, I just could not see him, was not ready. That is why I give my experiences time. I absolutely long for the old ones, play them in my mind over and over. But then, when I am just at the point of being ready, a new opportunity is there to behold. Sometimes the new option sucks and I feel bored so I pee in the water.
But I like to think that staying in the water is preparing me for the next great experience. It may not be altogether new but I am closer to it with every moment that passes.
So now I will go into the street to let the stray man who yells across the street, I want to Make Love to You, cut open the FOUR coconuts he insisted on giving me for the bread I gifted him with for dinner.
Pura Vida.
I have been on the Caribbean Coast, in Cahuita, for a few days now. It was a difficult transition from the bliss I found in La Fortuna but I have given the place time in order to settle in a little bit. Several times during the day I hear my thoughts saying, Time to Leave, but then something happens and I remain.
Life is funny here. Rasta vibe. The residents yell out to me every time I pass them, Hey Chica, Que Rica, Pretty Girl, My love, Hola, Mi Amor, and more more more. It is so ridiculous that I smile, sometimes laugh based on what is said, give a sideways glance, a Peace sign, and keep moving on. It works for me. I saw a lady earlier today yell at a man to leave her alone. I am pretty sure that I am enjoying the experience more than her. And so you wonder if I am safe. Oddly, because my response is friendly, it takes the charge out of the verbal advances and I am on easy terms with the people of this town. They like to talk about having Good Vibes here. I feel it...but am also pretty sure it is because of all the weed they are smoking.
I am never pressured or hassled to choose a restaurant, a walking companion, or a tour. Everyone offers to be my guide as they see me walking...in and out of town, along the beach, up and down the streets. Lots of thinking time for me.
This morning I went snorkeling for a couple hours. It was not spectacular compared to my previous experiences but it was ok. Having so much alone time and superficial connections with people is difficult at times. But for some reason I stay here and observe my thoughts and feelings. They are kind of like snorkeling. At times I look around and see something beautiful, am filled with excitement, and follow it around for awhile until I blink and cannot find it again. I search for it, swim faster looking around me while my heart pumps steadily. I see it briefly darting behind a rock but cannot quite seem to ever grasp that shared experience again. So I swim onward, kind of bored, waiting for excitement to grab me again. I look for the boat, think about just quitting, as though no better fish is there. But, alas, I breathe and toodle around - taking my time - and when I blink, a different exotic fish comes into focus. He was there all along, I just could not see him, was not ready. That is why I give my experiences time. I absolutely long for the old ones, play them in my mind over and over. But then, when I am just at the point of being ready, a new opportunity is there to behold. Sometimes the new option sucks and I feel bored so I pee in the water.
But I like to think that staying in the water is preparing me for the next great experience. It may not be altogether new but I am closer to it with every moment that passes.
So now I will go into the street to let the stray man who yells across the street, I want to Make Love to You, cut open the FOUR coconuts he insisted on giving me for the bread I gifted him with for dinner.
Pura Vida.
Thursday, April 14, 2011
my answer to The Question
People ask me every day what I do for fun. I do not drink, smoke, or dance. How could I possibly enjoy life ..question mark, which i cannot find on this spanish keyboard.
I guess the answer is that I smile. I find a way to enjoy the moments. The eating, the walking, the talking.
I hope you know yours!
I guess the answer is that I smile. I find a way to enjoy the moments. The eating, the walking, the talking.
I hope you know yours!
Monday, April 11, 2011
Playing with Ticos
I sit here in a small air conditioned - aka, a fan being on - room to train myself on grabbing a bit more of traditional responsibility. You know, letting you know I am alive and well. But my mind is floating, filled with Spanish, English, poetry and thoughts about where I am going next. Both physically and emotionally. And I am enjoying a coconut flavored sucker. So here I am.
The past week here has been beautiful. Hanging out at the hostel, visiting with the comers and goers. I reclaimed my love of cooking after eating out for 5 days...by cooking beans and rice and chicken - the same thing I was eating out :) But the difference is in being able to share it with my friends. Over good conversation. In Spanish. Or using lengthy statements to properly capture the semantic meaning.
Sundays are my favorite. The day when Ticos (Costa Ricans) take their families and a picnic basket and spend time outside. At the park or the waterfall, or the place I went yesterday - the watering hole. This place had a small waterfall with cold river water running through. I walked there with my Argentinian friend just before noon. Hanging from a large tree was a frazzled rope that has probably been there for ages. My friend helped me ask the locals who were relaxing on the rocks where the safe place to land in the water hole was. I did not want to go based on only a verbal description but luckily a 12 year old boy meandered down from the roadside to use it. He went, Andres went, and then I felt brave about the space to land in. So I grabbed the long stick set on the rocky cliff edge to pull the rope toward me, scrambled up the inclined rock to get some altitude and stood there. Weighing my body and arm strength by pulling on it to see if I could hold myself just using my hands. More people arrived and were chuckling. The only white female - a Gringa...wearing a Betsey Johnson swimsuit...to try this activity amongst the local men and boys. So I leaned back, counted to 3, felt my weight, counted to 3 again, and held on for the ride. It swung wide, far far into the center of the watering hole - way high up - and once there had to simply release. I crashed into the water, not gracefully, with a loud slap and earned myself a red hip from my landing. But it was exhilarating! So up I went, scaled the rock wall and returned. I developed more grace, ease, distance, and twirling across the dozen times I went. In between I would sun on the rocks or take off into a dive from the side of the waterfall from a slow run. Communicated with the Ticos using gestures across the pond - them challenging, me accepting. A delightful day!
Living in the moment can be so rewarding. As we walked back the 2 km to the hostel, Andres and I talked. I was looking for another word in Spanish for love other than Amor because it is unusual to say something like I love my food. He gave me an idea what to say, noted that I am in love with myself, thus overflowing and causing me to love everything I get into. Wisely said, when you are in conflict inside, everything is in conflict in your life. Nothing is fun or happy or clear.
So here I am. Merging love with life. Being seen. Being silly. Being zesty. It is nice to see me. This is the space where it starts. I feel a need to learn a handicraft - to be able to gift others. 3 friends each made me a piece of jewelry. A hemp bracelet tied tight on my left wrist with a beautiful bead and hematite stone from Kenya - grounding and lovely. A copper ring wrapped around my right middle finger - strong and true. A hand tied butterfly anklet residing on my right side - signifying change and emanating love. I am glad to be here, cultivating love in Costa Rica where we are easy like the radio music on Sunday evening.
Tomorrow I go to San Jose.
The past week here has been beautiful. Hanging out at the hostel, visiting with the comers and goers. I reclaimed my love of cooking after eating out for 5 days...by cooking beans and rice and chicken - the same thing I was eating out :) But the difference is in being able to share it with my friends. Over good conversation. In Spanish. Or using lengthy statements to properly capture the semantic meaning.
Sundays are my favorite. The day when Ticos (Costa Ricans) take their families and a picnic basket and spend time outside. At the park or the waterfall, or the place I went yesterday - the watering hole. This place had a small waterfall with cold river water running through. I walked there with my Argentinian friend just before noon. Hanging from a large tree was a frazzled rope that has probably been there for ages. My friend helped me ask the locals who were relaxing on the rocks where the safe place to land in the water hole was. I did not want to go based on only a verbal description but luckily a 12 year old boy meandered down from the roadside to use it. He went, Andres went, and then I felt brave about the space to land in. So I grabbed the long stick set on the rocky cliff edge to pull the rope toward me, scrambled up the inclined rock to get some altitude and stood there. Weighing my body and arm strength by pulling on it to see if I could hold myself just using my hands. More people arrived and were chuckling. The only white female - a Gringa...wearing a Betsey Johnson swimsuit...to try this activity amongst the local men and boys. So I leaned back, counted to 3, felt my weight, counted to 3 again, and held on for the ride. It swung wide, far far into the center of the watering hole - way high up - and once there had to simply release. I crashed into the water, not gracefully, with a loud slap and earned myself a red hip from my landing. But it was exhilarating! So up I went, scaled the rock wall and returned. I developed more grace, ease, distance, and twirling across the dozen times I went. In between I would sun on the rocks or take off into a dive from the side of the waterfall from a slow run. Communicated with the Ticos using gestures across the pond - them challenging, me accepting. A delightful day!
Living in the moment can be so rewarding. As we walked back the 2 km to the hostel, Andres and I talked. I was looking for another word in Spanish for love other than Amor because it is unusual to say something like I love my food. He gave me an idea what to say, noted that I am in love with myself, thus overflowing and causing me to love everything I get into. Wisely said, when you are in conflict inside, everything is in conflict in your life. Nothing is fun or happy or clear.
So here I am. Merging love with life. Being seen. Being silly. Being zesty. It is nice to see me. This is the space where it starts. I feel a need to learn a handicraft - to be able to gift others. 3 friends each made me a piece of jewelry. A hemp bracelet tied tight on my left wrist with a beautiful bead and hematite stone from Kenya - grounding and lovely. A copper ring wrapped around my right middle finger - strong and true. A hand tied butterfly anklet residing on my right side - signifying change and emanating love. I am glad to be here, cultivating love in Costa Rica where we are easy like the radio music on Sunday evening.
Tomorrow I go to San Jose.
Thursday, April 7, 2011
La Fortuna de San Carolos, Costa Rica
Here I am. Staying in a hostel dormitory with 8-beds, called Gringo Petes. Originally I was going to stay here for three days and keep on moving. Luckily, I was intercepted by life and other travelers on the no-plan plan. So here I am 4 days later and in no hurry to leave, which is funny because its not the type of town I expected to stay in. Yes theres a beautiful volcano but not romantic otherwise. There is no beach or free hiking areas or rainforest right outside my window. Rather, its a town full of tourist adventure packages and the type of travelers who want to quick pack in a tour before they hit the road again.
A couple days ago I was feeling a bit caught up in the energy of moving all over the country and even considering going to Panama or Nicaragua like everyone else. After all, I am here for 2 months - what else would/should I do? Enter Rory. He has been here for 2 weeks. My fun these days involves tons of conversation about linguistics (super fun!) and using words that have full meaning and those which accurately express my actual ideas. I could share with you my tale of hiking up the Volcano Cerro Chato through the rain and dense trees but that isnt what keeps me here. I found a space that allows me to meditate in the mornings, nap if I want, and be around people also trying to just be in this space. Its wonderful.
I am one week into my 2-month adventure. I catch myself wondering why I dont stop, take a breath and acknowledge, HERE I am, in Minnesota the way I do here in Costa Rica. This internal space is where the magic happens. I found a Chakra massage therapist and had a session with her yesterday. I feel clear in my head and heart. Tonight I found a small outdoor cafe and asked about making the typical soup so I could buy ingredients. The lady offered to teach me in the cafe kitchen so I will return tomorrow to do so.
I dont feel like updating my blog much. My daily goals consist of simple things like shower, maybe handwash a t-shirt or attend to my blisters, hardboil some eggs, drink coffee with sugar in it, etc. I love the space I am in and am sending this love to you - with high hopes that you are enjoying the space you are in.
Love, hugs, and SMILES!
A couple days ago I was feeling a bit caught up in the energy of moving all over the country and even considering going to Panama or Nicaragua like everyone else. After all, I am here for 2 months - what else would/should I do? Enter Rory. He has been here for 2 weeks. My fun these days involves tons of conversation about linguistics (super fun!) and using words that have full meaning and those which accurately express my actual ideas. I could share with you my tale of hiking up the Volcano Cerro Chato through the rain and dense trees but that isnt what keeps me here. I found a space that allows me to meditate in the mornings, nap if I want, and be around people also trying to just be in this space. Its wonderful.
I am one week into my 2-month adventure. I catch myself wondering why I dont stop, take a breath and acknowledge, HERE I am, in Minnesota the way I do here in Costa Rica. This internal space is where the magic happens. I found a Chakra massage therapist and had a session with her yesterday. I feel clear in my head and heart. Tonight I found a small outdoor cafe and asked about making the typical soup so I could buy ingredients. The lady offered to teach me in the cafe kitchen so I will return tomorrow to do so.
I dont feel like updating my blog much. My daily goals consist of simple things like shower, maybe handwash a t-shirt or attend to my blisters, hardboil some eggs, drink coffee with sugar in it, etc. I love the space I am in and am sending this love to you - with high hopes that you are enjoying the space you are in.
Love, hugs, and SMILES!
Monday, April 4, 2011
Bagaces, Costa Rica
I spent the last 3 days with the family of Veronica P. I took the local bus from the beach into Liberia and learned valuable lessons along the way. First - if you want a spot on the bus take it from the original station because by the time it gets several stops down the road it´s full. Second - if they require you to put your bag in the storage underneath sit on that side of the bus to watch it. People get off every stop and grab bags. This bus ride was the first time I felt really nervous about traveling. Unknown destination, unknown friend to be meeting, unknown everything. I sat there thinking, now THIS is an adventure! Veronica met me at the station and we took another bus to her hometown. I held my 50 lb pack on my lap because the bus was packed and had less than an inch to breath - I couldn´t even turn my head because there wasn´t space for my nose. Plus I had to prop it up with my hand so it didn´t fall on the lady next to me, man I was sweating for that 45 minutes! Sarah, I still can´t fully understand your Nepali experience on the bus in the heat - what a trial.
In Bagaces I was welcomed warmly by the family. I love small towns because they´re off the beaten path and allow me to relax instead of searching for things to do. I enjoyed the typical Costa Rican food, which is rice and beans at every meal with the addition of a little meat at lunch and meat plus salad at dinner. The kitchen is one of my favorite places to connect with people. It was cozy to help cut veggies and wash dishes and just share space together. The parents didn´t speak English so I was challenged to not only find vocabulary to communicate with them but to put the whole message together when they spoke. The speaking style is very rapid and the last syllable of every word usually gets dropped off so sentences are a slur. My brain tunes out conversation in order to rest so often I was caught unawares by someone sharply yelling - Samantha! It´s getting better though, in 2 months I should be a pro :)
Veronica and I went to a local waterfall and swam around one of the days. Funny that girls in their 20´s all over the world have the same problems, and therefore conversations - families, boyfriends, figuring out their own rules in life. I loved the one on one time just being girls together. Then we hiked to the top of the falls over leaves and hot, sharp rocks. I picked up a few thorns in my feet and blisters but it was a new experience that I appreciated sharing. When we finished and returned home we hung out with the family where people randomly stopped by. The main information I always have to share is where I´m from, where I´m going, if I like Costa Rica and if I´m married. Of course, not being married, I´m always asked how I feel about Latin men - ha!
Yesterday we all packed into the car and drove to hours to visit Uncle. He lives closer to the Pacific Coast and had a friend who is caretaking a beautiful vacation property that was empty. So we went there and swam. I dove in and before I knew it was teaching the other 4 20-somethings and Uncle how to dive. It was hilarious because I had to make up levels of poco, medio and grande to ease into the technique. It brought lots of laughter! We set up races for me and boy Cousin and I won several times in a row. The girls got a kick out of it and his pride was a little hurt so after awhile he wanted to race again. I teased him about wanting to lose, which I highly enjoyed because joking is one of those things lost in translation for me. We went 3 more times and each time I won by a greater distance. To save face he changed the game to race underwater without breathing. If you´re family you know we did this all the time growing up and won´t be surprised to hear I swam the entire length and won. The girls highly enjoyed this, giggling all along, but he was a great sport.
This morning I left Bagaces by catching a bus into the center of town. Unfortunately, the next bus I caught in the wrong direction so lost 2 hours in the round trip. Then I had to catch 2 more buses to get to my destination of La Fortuna de San Carlos. Transition days have some difficulty for me. I don´t mind riding the bus all day but there´s the new unknowing of my next destination, lodging and plan. But, it allows me to live in the moment and observe all the things around me. Before my final bus I met 2 other backpackers and we visited for 30 minutes over lunch. It was so nice to meet like-minded people. When talking, they made the important distinction between traveling and being on vacation. Clearly, what I´m doing is traveling, and it´s something I love! When we parted, I received my first hugs in over a week from them. That´s what I´m missing today. Otherwise, time keeps rolling on and so will I. I feel calm and content, am well fed, healthy and strong.
Sending love and HUGS. Hasta luego!
In Bagaces I was welcomed warmly by the family. I love small towns because they´re off the beaten path and allow me to relax instead of searching for things to do. I enjoyed the typical Costa Rican food, which is rice and beans at every meal with the addition of a little meat at lunch and meat plus salad at dinner. The kitchen is one of my favorite places to connect with people. It was cozy to help cut veggies and wash dishes and just share space together. The parents didn´t speak English so I was challenged to not only find vocabulary to communicate with them but to put the whole message together when they spoke. The speaking style is very rapid and the last syllable of every word usually gets dropped off so sentences are a slur. My brain tunes out conversation in order to rest so often I was caught unawares by someone sharply yelling - Samantha! It´s getting better though, in 2 months I should be a pro :)
Veronica and I went to a local waterfall and swam around one of the days. Funny that girls in their 20´s all over the world have the same problems, and therefore conversations - families, boyfriends, figuring out their own rules in life. I loved the one on one time just being girls together. Then we hiked to the top of the falls over leaves and hot, sharp rocks. I picked up a few thorns in my feet and blisters but it was a new experience that I appreciated sharing. When we finished and returned home we hung out with the family where people randomly stopped by. The main information I always have to share is where I´m from, where I´m going, if I like Costa Rica and if I´m married. Of course, not being married, I´m always asked how I feel about Latin men - ha!
Yesterday we all packed into the car and drove to hours to visit Uncle. He lives closer to the Pacific Coast and had a friend who is caretaking a beautiful vacation property that was empty. So we went there and swam. I dove in and before I knew it was teaching the other 4 20-somethings and Uncle how to dive. It was hilarious because I had to make up levels of poco, medio and grande to ease into the technique. It brought lots of laughter! We set up races for me and boy Cousin and I won several times in a row. The girls got a kick out of it and his pride was a little hurt so after awhile he wanted to race again. I teased him about wanting to lose, which I highly enjoyed because joking is one of those things lost in translation for me. We went 3 more times and each time I won by a greater distance. To save face he changed the game to race underwater without breathing. If you´re family you know we did this all the time growing up and won´t be surprised to hear I swam the entire length and won. The girls highly enjoyed this, giggling all along, but he was a great sport.
This morning I left Bagaces by catching a bus into the center of town. Unfortunately, the next bus I caught in the wrong direction so lost 2 hours in the round trip. Then I had to catch 2 more buses to get to my destination of La Fortuna de San Carlos. Transition days have some difficulty for me. I don´t mind riding the bus all day but there´s the new unknowing of my next destination, lodging and plan. But, it allows me to live in the moment and observe all the things around me. Before my final bus I met 2 other backpackers and we visited for 30 minutes over lunch. It was so nice to meet like-minded people. When talking, they made the important distinction between traveling and being on vacation. Clearly, what I´m doing is traveling, and it´s something I love! When we parted, I received my first hugs in over a week from them. That´s what I´m missing today. Otherwise, time keeps rolling on and so will I. I feel calm and content, am well fed, healthy and strong.
Sending love and HUGS. Hasta luego!
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