This is the end.
But not really.
I bet you are curious.
Did I experience local customs and develop fantastic Spanish speaking skills? Yep.
Did I explore the country, coast to coast, mountains to oceans? Yes.
Did I cultivate love in Costa Rica? Oh Yes!
My experience here has been amazing, and yet it has also been regular life. Ups and downs, happys and sads, loves and un-loves.
I take the 4 hour bus trip from San Jose to Liberia and spend the night there. I will visit with my original couchsurfing friend once again and off-load some of my American stuff. I travel with my favorite person.
This time feels exciting but normal. Another event in the day-in-the-life of me.
Absorbing all.
Hugs and Besos!
Tuesday, May 24, 2011
Wednesday, May 18, 2011
Time Flies When...
...you are in the perfect place at the perfect time.
I want to spend less time online and more time living.
Summary-style:
I stayed at the communal-style hostel for one week in Uvita. I took bus trips, motorcycle rides and hitchhiked with a Tico family (funny enough it was the mother who wanted to pick me up) to make a couple of day trips to the next town, Dominical. Played basketball with a couple Ticos, whom I beat in the game 21 without too much aggressive fouling that I learned from playing with Donald. Explored the local spots including the watering hole with small waterfall and rope swing. Watched pre-teen boys doing double front flips off the rope before I took my turn and pencil-dropped into the water...to find out it was less than 5 feet deep! My jarred legs and scraped knee were not very happy but all is well. Note to self, ask HOW deep. Met a wonderful friend, Robert, who is biking around the world (http://robsbikeride.com/). Left Uvita at 5:15am after unexpectedly changing my bus plan so this hug is for you Rob!!!
Made my way up to the mountain village of San Gerardo de Dota. Spent 3 nights hiking around the area, going bird watching and spending time with my favorite person. Spotted the famed Quetzal bird and even got some pictures with my awesome-zoom camera.
Currently I am hopping through the capitol city, San Jose, to get to Tortuguero in order to spend time in the marsh. Looking forward to canoeing, kayaking, hiking, Caribbean food once again, small town atmosphere.
Time is really flying. I find myself planning several days ahead instead of just one day at a time in order to do what I need while here. My brain, though initially resistant, is thinking about MN and life upon return. Traveling is a great way to reinvent onself and I am curious to see which points stick and which ones float away.
I look forward to connecting with loving friends and family when I return. Though I am not coming with tangible gifts or souvenirs I hope to transport you with some of my stories.
And with that, I bid you adieu.
I want to spend less time online and more time living.
Summary-style:
I stayed at the communal-style hostel for one week in Uvita. I took bus trips, motorcycle rides and hitchhiked with a Tico family (funny enough it was the mother who wanted to pick me up) to make a couple of day trips to the next town, Dominical. Played basketball with a couple Ticos, whom I beat in the game 21 without too much aggressive fouling that I learned from playing with Donald. Explored the local spots including the watering hole with small waterfall and rope swing. Watched pre-teen boys doing double front flips off the rope before I took my turn and pencil-dropped into the water...to find out it was less than 5 feet deep! My jarred legs and scraped knee were not very happy but all is well. Note to self, ask HOW deep. Met a wonderful friend, Robert, who is biking around the world (http://robsbikeride.com/). Left Uvita at 5:15am after unexpectedly changing my bus plan so this hug is for you Rob!!!
Made my way up to the mountain village of San Gerardo de Dota. Spent 3 nights hiking around the area, going bird watching and spending time with my favorite person. Spotted the famed Quetzal bird and even got some pictures with my awesome-zoom camera.
Currently I am hopping through the capitol city, San Jose, to get to Tortuguero in order to spend time in the marsh. Looking forward to canoeing, kayaking, hiking, Caribbean food once again, small town atmosphere.
Time is really flying. I find myself planning several days ahead instead of just one day at a time in order to do what I need while here. My brain, though initially resistant, is thinking about MN and life upon return. Traveling is a great way to reinvent onself and I am curious to see which points stick and which ones float away.
I look forward to connecting with loving friends and family when I return. Though I am not coming with tangible gifts or souvenirs I hope to transport you with some of my stories.
And with that, I bid you adieu.
Sunday, May 8, 2011
Carate, Costa Rica
I spent the past 3 days and 2 nights camping with my favorite travel buddy, Rory. Camping is one of those things I wanted to do out here but do not have the necessary equipment or confidence to go alone. Being an economical traveler rather than a luxury vacationer I refused to pay for a guide or rent equipment and go with a group. Rory had all the basic, necessary equipment: small tent with rain flap, shovel, hatchet, small propane stove with a cooking pot and wilderness experience and confidence. Add that to my car-camping knowledge from growing up (basic fire starting and maintenance skills, cooking, gathering firewood) and the 2 most-used utensils I travel with (spork-knifoon from Sarah and switchblade knife from Dad) to establish a potentially successful experience.
It started with us taking a collective taxi from Puerto Jimenez to Carate. This was a 2.5 hour ride of bouncing up and down in the back of a tarp-covered truck filled with locals, boxes of food and beer, and budget travelers with their large packs and surfboards. The benches, with their thin padding filled up quickly. Stops were made along the way to pick up locals needing to hop on for part of the distance. They handed over their bags of rice or young child to the passenger closest to the back and then crawled over the barred-up door to find a small standing space. The jostling was intense but as a first experience rather delightful in my eyes.
We arrived at our destination by 4pm and took a path out from the trees that led straight toward the ocean. Rory scoped out the location and found a neat little camping space up on the ledge covered by trees. We set up his little yellow tent and did our own thing. I wandered back into the forest, intrigued by the coconut trees extending high up - too high to climb or knock one down with a length of bamboo - and within a couple hours found 6 coconuts on the ground that were not yet ravaged by monkeys. Add that to the 4 cuadrado (square) fruit I scavenged from deep in the thicket of meshed trees and vines and we had ourselves fresh tropical fruit to last the duration of our trip. I used my firewood gathering skills from childhood to haul armloads of dry driftwood back to the campsite. I definitely earned the sweat and dirt that still stains my clothing. And, even better than that, the sense of satisfaction, self-sufficiency, and strength that goes with finding and creating those things which sustain our basic human needs.
There was only a sliver of a moon and as dark settled in I felt very small and afraid of the dark in the wide open space. On one side of me the powerful ocean churned out waves continuously while on the others there were rainforest noises impossible for me to identify and, therefore, feel easy about. Occasionally I saw a shadow on the beach that turned out to be somethings random, such as a horse-drawn cart being driven by a Tico. Rory recognized my fear and from that simple understanding helped me feel more relaxed.
We watched the fire burn until midnight and found easy entertainment and tranquility in each others company. Staring up through the vent in the tent I saw the palms and leaf silhouttes waving high above us. We hid our bags under the rain flap and hoped the monkeys would not steal our stuff in an effort to locate food.
My first night was restless and so I was up early. Rorys stove was not working so we got a morning fire going and enjoyed oatmeal that I doctored up with mango, cuadrado (similar tasting to a banana) and bits of coconut. Coconut was my glory of the trip! After chopping the husk off and peeling it I cracked open the tops to drink the water, dice the meat and pulverize a small bit of it into a thick milk. I invented a mortar and pestle using the shell, small bowls and cups for holding coffee and soup broth.
The sun on the beach was intense so I was burnt by 8am before I even took the time to apply sunscreen. I took the opportunity to nap for a couple hours mid-day and then it was back to fire-building and exploring. Wandering down the beach before dusk we found a shaded inlet where a river ran through. We used river water for drinking after purifying with a pump and Rory fashioned a bathtub of sorts by damning up the space using rocks and natural materials.
After finishing up in this space we made our way back to the campsite, 20 minutes away. We talked and played like big kids, skipping, sprint racing and yelling obscenities into the open space.
No longer afraid of the wild I was free to be in my body. I did yoga on a log half-covered by ocean waves and moved from the water to the fire on my own terms. As I sat on this secluded beach nestled right up to the Costa Rican rainforest I let go of emotional and physical restrictions. There was some skinny dipping. And joy. And a sense of freedom.
On our last morning I awoke at 6am and took a stroll down the beach. I watched trees that held a dozen scarlet macaws squawking and playing around. I sat still to observe the 30 pelicans in their morning routine on the water. I wandered without a goal or expectation.
When I returned to the campsite at 830am I had coffee from a coconut, some tropical oatmeal in the shade. Anticipating a full day of blazing sun, we packed a small backpack with water, a snack of peanuts and raisins, a camera and a towel. We made our way to our shaded river and spent hours there. I relaxed on the rocks and watched the trees for natural entertainment: monkeys, birds, lizards, gorgeous greenery and flowers. Rory entertained himself doing man jobs.
The time came when we needed to return to the campsite and pack up. We did so quietly. At ease in our surroudings and with each other. It was a beautiful experience, one that can never be replicated and so will always be appreciated.
We bounced up and down all the way back to Puerto Jimenez on the Collectivo - not as fun having your insides rattled out as the first time, but an experience of its own.
Today we are off to Uvita. In this beach town there will be space for relaxing, story-writing reflection, bicycling, surfing and cooking in our hostel. I have only 2.5 weeks left here in Costa Rica. I am reminded how much time is left every morning that I wake up. And so I breathe. Absorb the moments and try to enjoy them fully.
I am filled with love and sending a special hug to my favorite mom on this Mothers Day. May your day be wonderful!
It started with us taking a collective taxi from Puerto Jimenez to Carate. This was a 2.5 hour ride of bouncing up and down in the back of a tarp-covered truck filled with locals, boxes of food and beer, and budget travelers with their large packs and surfboards. The benches, with their thin padding filled up quickly. Stops were made along the way to pick up locals needing to hop on for part of the distance. They handed over their bags of rice or young child to the passenger closest to the back and then crawled over the barred-up door to find a small standing space. The jostling was intense but as a first experience rather delightful in my eyes.
We arrived at our destination by 4pm and took a path out from the trees that led straight toward the ocean. Rory scoped out the location and found a neat little camping space up on the ledge covered by trees. We set up his little yellow tent and did our own thing. I wandered back into the forest, intrigued by the coconut trees extending high up - too high to climb or knock one down with a length of bamboo - and within a couple hours found 6 coconuts on the ground that were not yet ravaged by monkeys. Add that to the 4 cuadrado (square) fruit I scavenged from deep in the thicket of meshed trees and vines and we had ourselves fresh tropical fruit to last the duration of our trip. I used my firewood gathering skills from childhood to haul armloads of dry driftwood back to the campsite. I definitely earned the sweat and dirt that still stains my clothing. And, even better than that, the sense of satisfaction, self-sufficiency, and strength that goes with finding and creating those things which sustain our basic human needs.
There was only a sliver of a moon and as dark settled in I felt very small and afraid of the dark in the wide open space. On one side of me the powerful ocean churned out waves continuously while on the others there were rainforest noises impossible for me to identify and, therefore, feel easy about. Occasionally I saw a shadow on the beach that turned out to be somethings random, such as a horse-drawn cart being driven by a Tico. Rory recognized my fear and from that simple understanding helped me feel more relaxed.
We watched the fire burn until midnight and found easy entertainment and tranquility in each others company. Staring up through the vent in the tent I saw the palms and leaf silhouttes waving high above us. We hid our bags under the rain flap and hoped the monkeys would not steal our stuff in an effort to locate food.
My first night was restless and so I was up early. Rorys stove was not working so we got a morning fire going and enjoyed oatmeal that I doctored up with mango, cuadrado (similar tasting to a banana) and bits of coconut. Coconut was my glory of the trip! After chopping the husk off and peeling it I cracked open the tops to drink the water, dice the meat and pulverize a small bit of it into a thick milk. I invented a mortar and pestle using the shell, small bowls and cups for holding coffee and soup broth.
The sun on the beach was intense so I was burnt by 8am before I even took the time to apply sunscreen. I took the opportunity to nap for a couple hours mid-day and then it was back to fire-building and exploring. Wandering down the beach before dusk we found a shaded inlet where a river ran through. We used river water for drinking after purifying with a pump and Rory fashioned a bathtub of sorts by damning up the space using rocks and natural materials.
After finishing up in this space we made our way back to the campsite, 20 minutes away. We talked and played like big kids, skipping, sprint racing and yelling obscenities into the open space.
No longer afraid of the wild I was free to be in my body. I did yoga on a log half-covered by ocean waves and moved from the water to the fire on my own terms. As I sat on this secluded beach nestled right up to the Costa Rican rainforest I let go of emotional and physical restrictions. There was some skinny dipping. And joy. And a sense of freedom.
On our last morning I awoke at 6am and took a stroll down the beach. I watched trees that held a dozen scarlet macaws squawking and playing around. I sat still to observe the 30 pelicans in their morning routine on the water. I wandered without a goal or expectation.
When I returned to the campsite at 830am I had coffee from a coconut, some tropical oatmeal in the shade. Anticipating a full day of blazing sun, we packed a small backpack with water, a snack of peanuts and raisins, a camera and a towel. We made our way to our shaded river and spent hours there. I relaxed on the rocks and watched the trees for natural entertainment: monkeys, birds, lizards, gorgeous greenery and flowers. Rory entertained himself doing man jobs.
The time came when we needed to return to the campsite and pack up. We did so quietly. At ease in our surroudings and with each other. It was a beautiful experience, one that can never be replicated and so will always be appreciated.
We bounced up and down all the way back to Puerto Jimenez on the Collectivo - not as fun having your insides rattled out as the first time, but an experience of its own.
Today we are off to Uvita. In this beach town there will be space for relaxing, story-writing reflection, bicycling, surfing and cooking in our hostel. I have only 2.5 weeks left here in Costa Rica. I am reminded how much time is left every morning that I wake up. And so I breathe. Absorb the moments and try to enjoy them fully.
I am filled with love and sending a special hug to my favorite mom on this Mothers Day. May your day be wonderful!
Tuesday, May 3, 2011
Buenos Aires, Costa Rica
I have been here for a week. That is much longer than the usual 2 or 3 nights I typically stay in places. It is a nice little town, full of locals rather than tourists and retired Americans. I want to write about all the experiences here, share delight in the small things. The Tico who sold me coconut water and let me hold his 10-month old baby, the motel owner (my new abuellito...small grandpa) who loans me his bicycle on a daily basis free of charge - and tells me with a smile that he hopes I break it so I have to buy him a new one, the farm owner who yelled Hola! to get me to stop and visit for a few minutes in pineapple land, the chef who invited me and my friend to his house since we are staying awhile - the expectation that we stand out on the road and yell his name, Chago, so he knows our arrival.
But all those tidbits are stories I do not feel like writing about so will share with you in-person if you remember to ask. They are soaked into me. And I love telling stories...a new realization for me on this trip. I write short stories frequently here, a shift from my usual diary entries. And I think there is something to it. So I claim what I now see I am... a writer :)
My writing energy was significantly depleted 2 nights ago by a case of traveler´s diarrhea. It was time, I suppose, for me to experience the TD. So if you have a TD story my ears will perk up and I swear to listen this time, because now I know! Ahhh, what to share. Maybe just the highlights, which are more like the lowlights.
It started with an old fish stick dinner. Not what I thought I ordered but I ate it anyway, cleaned my plate as usual. Within 3 hours my stomach was so hard and painful there was no way I was going to sleep for any length of time. Every couple of hours I found myself in the bathroom trying to vomit or use the toilet, to no avail. Nasty, loooooong burps escaped every time I stood up - my body trying to relieve pressure and stagnation. It was not until 6am that ¨things¨started happening. Those ¨things¨ happened frequently for 4 hours until my friend wisely questioned if I should take some medicine. So I conjured up the OTC meds I had begrudgingly purchased from Target only 5 weeks ago, and swallowed two of the pills.
The pills stopped the fluid excursions but the belly pain and stagnation returned. I laid in bed most of the day while my wonderful friend made several trips to the market for provisions of ginger ale, gatorade, watermelon. And by night time I decided it was time for this new experience of mine to be over. Yep, I started on the antibiotics. Relief!
Last night I got some sleep. Today I feel human again. Did some light yoga and am able to eat food - please, don´t mention fish to me though!
I am glad to no longer be kneeling on the bathroom floor, the space small and lacking airflow. To no longer be belching ridiculously or remaining horizontal. To be able to stand in the shower instead of lying under the cool flow of water in an attempt to feel something different.
And having a friend with me.
But all those tidbits are stories I do not feel like writing about so will share with you in-person if you remember to ask. They are soaked into me. And I love telling stories...a new realization for me on this trip. I write short stories frequently here, a shift from my usual diary entries. And I think there is something to it. So I claim what I now see I am... a writer :)
My writing energy was significantly depleted 2 nights ago by a case of traveler´s diarrhea. It was time, I suppose, for me to experience the TD. So if you have a TD story my ears will perk up and I swear to listen this time, because now I know! Ahhh, what to share. Maybe just the highlights, which are more like the lowlights.
It started with an old fish stick dinner. Not what I thought I ordered but I ate it anyway, cleaned my plate as usual. Within 3 hours my stomach was so hard and painful there was no way I was going to sleep for any length of time. Every couple of hours I found myself in the bathroom trying to vomit or use the toilet, to no avail. Nasty, loooooong burps escaped every time I stood up - my body trying to relieve pressure and stagnation. It was not until 6am that ¨things¨started happening. Those ¨things¨ happened frequently for 4 hours until my friend wisely questioned if I should take some medicine. So I conjured up the OTC meds I had begrudgingly purchased from Target only 5 weeks ago, and swallowed two of the pills.
The pills stopped the fluid excursions but the belly pain and stagnation returned. I laid in bed most of the day while my wonderful friend made several trips to the market for provisions of ginger ale, gatorade, watermelon. And by night time I decided it was time for this new experience of mine to be over. Yep, I started on the antibiotics. Relief!
Last night I got some sleep. Today I feel human again. Did some light yoga and am able to eat food - please, don´t mention fish to me though!
I am glad to no longer be kneeling on the bathroom floor, the space small and lacking airflow. To no longer be belching ridiculously or remaining horizontal. To be able to stand in the shower instead of lying under the cool flow of water in an attempt to feel something different.
And having a friend with me.
Wednesday, April 27, 2011
Boquete, Panama
Is it worth posting when the adventures start to feel like normal life?
I spent the last few days in Boquete, Panama. It started with a bang! I found the local food joint and waited in a slow-moving line to make my choices from the buffet like layout. Not knowing what the different foods were I turned around and asked the people behind me. One thing led to another and before I knew it we were eating together and then going on a motorcycle tour around town. They took me up to the national park trail where the clouds were thick and made it impossible to see without taking my sunglasses off. It was gorgeous and a great introduction to the town. Sometimes I only see the town center where I stay and an extra couple miles where I walk. It made me think about getting a car, or hitchhiking to see more.
The days after that first one were calm. I kicked around town, observed the goings-on that were part of Semana Santa (Holy Week). My hostel was right in the center of town so the preaching and music in the main square kept me awake until 4am a couple nights in a row. But Mamallena Hostal has a great community atmosphere so I stayed a few more nights.
One of the advertised things to do in Boquete is to hike up Volcan Baru. Typically, groups leave at 10:30pm to make the 6 hour trek uphill, watch the sunrise, and then trek back in about 4 hours. I like my sleep so I coordinated a group to leave at 4:30pm instead. I wrote a story about it in my journal so am not going to do so here. In summary, we got to the outdoor shelter and laid out our sleeping bags to sleep under the stars in the 40ish degree weather. I was glad to have my emergency blanket because I made full use of it inside my mummy sleeping bag! Because of the cold I only slept 90 minutes, huddled next to my friend Anna. It was a relief when 4am rolled around and we could get up and trek the last 45 minutes to the peak. I sat up there in my sleeping bag for a couple hours while we all visited, watched the sky lighten slowly, illuminating the mountains and volcano around us. There were 8 of us, from 4 different countries, and we entertained ourselves by playing the alphabet game. I love that all people are just people.
After some meditation, photo opps, and all-around good fun we headed back down the hill. The loose rocks and lack of sleep made the trek down a little less than delightful but we made it. At the entrance we paid our $5 park fee and called a taxi to bring us back to town. But when he got there he wanted to charge $4 per person instead of the official $2pp so out of principle everyone refused. The driver jumped into his car, refusing to negotiate, and peeled outta there. Now, only 5 minutes earlier we were all struggling to make it the short distance to the taxi, but suddenly, there we were, full of energy and walking 20km back to town. Luckily, after 40 minutes of walking we got picked up by a farm truck and rode a few k´s closer to town. But, alas, he had onions to pick up so he directed us to the corner where taxis are supposed to be.
None were there. So on we walked. In the sun. Down the winding road, knees aching. On and on.
20 minutes later the same farm truck turned up, loaded with sacks of onions, and motioned us to jump in. So we did, with just enough space to stand there. He drove us further than his actual destination in order to drop us only 2 or 3 km from town. So we walked some more.
It was a lovely adventure.
And I am distinctly aware that some of you reading this have a problem with me hitchhiking. I could have chosen to not share the story but I like sharing my life with you, the ways I am cultivating love within myself and with the friends around me. This is one of those ways. Please, let your criticism go.
My time in Boquete was grounding. Being in the rainforest, doing a difficult trek that my health could not afford a mere 2 years ago. It opened me up to life and freedom and happiness.
Last night I was in the lobby of the hostal transferring pictures from my camera. One of the reception workers walked in with a lady who is a relocation specialist in Panama. She commented on my hair, liking the short cut. Earlier that day I had the thought that it needs a trim and so I mentioned this to her. She flippantly said if she had scissors she could totally do it. I looked her dead on, asked her if that was true, she said Yes. I jumped up, asked the receptionist for a pair of scissors and was rewarded by her retrieving a pair from the desk. Think 5th grade scissors, plastic handle, small.
Out we went, into the night, and found a place under the streetlight to do a little trim. A lot of time was spent on the left side. My cowlick in back now stands on end. Its asymmetrical and unconventional. But I can´t really tell because there are not a lot of mirrors here.
It feels good.
Spontaneity.
Living.
Cultivating love all over the place.
I spent the last few days in Boquete, Panama. It started with a bang! I found the local food joint and waited in a slow-moving line to make my choices from the buffet like layout. Not knowing what the different foods were I turned around and asked the people behind me. One thing led to another and before I knew it we were eating together and then going on a motorcycle tour around town. They took me up to the national park trail where the clouds were thick and made it impossible to see without taking my sunglasses off. It was gorgeous and a great introduction to the town. Sometimes I only see the town center where I stay and an extra couple miles where I walk. It made me think about getting a car, or hitchhiking to see more.
The days after that first one were calm. I kicked around town, observed the goings-on that were part of Semana Santa (Holy Week). My hostel was right in the center of town so the preaching and music in the main square kept me awake until 4am a couple nights in a row. But Mamallena Hostal has a great community atmosphere so I stayed a few more nights.
One of the advertised things to do in Boquete is to hike up Volcan Baru. Typically, groups leave at 10:30pm to make the 6 hour trek uphill, watch the sunrise, and then trek back in about 4 hours. I like my sleep so I coordinated a group to leave at 4:30pm instead. I wrote a story about it in my journal so am not going to do so here. In summary, we got to the outdoor shelter and laid out our sleeping bags to sleep under the stars in the 40ish degree weather. I was glad to have my emergency blanket because I made full use of it inside my mummy sleeping bag! Because of the cold I only slept 90 minutes, huddled next to my friend Anna. It was a relief when 4am rolled around and we could get up and trek the last 45 minutes to the peak. I sat up there in my sleeping bag for a couple hours while we all visited, watched the sky lighten slowly, illuminating the mountains and volcano around us. There were 8 of us, from 4 different countries, and we entertained ourselves by playing the alphabet game. I love that all people are just people.
After some meditation, photo opps, and all-around good fun we headed back down the hill. The loose rocks and lack of sleep made the trek down a little less than delightful but we made it. At the entrance we paid our $5 park fee and called a taxi to bring us back to town. But when he got there he wanted to charge $4 per person instead of the official $2pp so out of principle everyone refused. The driver jumped into his car, refusing to negotiate, and peeled outta there. Now, only 5 minutes earlier we were all struggling to make it the short distance to the taxi, but suddenly, there we were, full of energy and walking 20km back to town. Luckily, after 40 minutes of walking we got picked up by a farm truck and rode a few k´s closer to town. But, alas, he had onions to pick up so he directed us to the corner where taxis are supposed to be.
None were there. So on we walked. In the sun. Down the winding road, knees aching. On and on.
20 minutes later the same farm truck turned up, loaded with sacks of onions, and motioned us to jump in. So we did, with just enough space to stand there. He drove us further than his actual destination in order to drop us only 2 or 3 km from town. So we walked some more.
It was a lovely adventure.
And I am distinctly aware that some of you reading this have a problem with me hitchhiking. I could have chosen to not share the story but I like sharing my life with you, the ways I am cultivating love within myself and with the friends around me. This is one of those ways. Please, let your criticism go.
My time in Boquete was grounding. Being in the rainforest, doing a difficult trek that my health could not afford a mere 2 years ago. It opened me up to life and freedom and happiness.
Last night I was in the lobby of the hostal transferring pictures from my camera. One of the reception workers walked in with a lady who is a relocation specialist in Panama. She commented on my hair, liking the short cut. Earlier that day I had the thought that it needs a trim and so I mentioned this to her. She flippantly said if she had scissors she could totally do it. I looked her dead on, asked her if that was true, she said Yes. I jumped up, asked the receptionist for a pair of scissors and was rewarded by her retrieving a pair from the desk. Think 5th grade scissors, plastic handle, small.
Out we went, into the night, and found a place under the streetlight to do a little trim. A lot of time was spent on the left side. My cowlick in back now stands on end. Its asymmetrical and unconventional. But I can´t really tell because there are not a lot of mirrors here.
It feels good.
Spontaneity.
Living.
Cultivating love all over the place.
Friday, April 22, 2011
Bocas del Torro, Panama
Life makes me smile.
I was all prepared to go to Punta Mona, an island off Costa Rica. I woke up in the morning with a fully planned itinerary for the day - my first time this whole trip. But when I looked outside something did not mesh. Yes it was rainy. Yes the town was becoming crowded due to the Semana Santa holiday week. Yes I was sick of closing myself off in order to block out Caribbean men. But none of those were the reasons my plans changed. And I cannot tell you exactly what happened, but I knew there would be something different in store for me.
I checked with the owner of what I thought was a communal living center and as it turned out NO other person besides the housekeeper would be on the island. I couldn´t handle it. Or probably I could have but I decided not to torture myself by going on an unintentional week-long hermitage. So somehow I found myself on the 8:30 bus to the border of Costa Rica, prepared to cross into Panama.
Throughout my whole trip people have questioned how I intended to stay in small Costa Rica for an entire 2 months and it never phased me. I owned it. But somehow I needed to do something different. So there I was, on the bus, with only a general idea of the town I was going to and how long it would take. No lodging, no guide book, no Panamanian currency (U.S. dollars, by the way!).
And I felt FREE.
I struck up a conversation with another traveler and we ended riding his coattails to Bocas del Torro, an island off the coast of Panama. It was quite entertaining to go through customs, which involved crossing a bridge by foot and then waiting in the sun for hours to get stamped. Plus I had to buy a bus ticket out of Panama that is useless - they make you do it to reassure them of your intention to leave.
I eventually made it to the island and wandered the streets with my new friend for a couple hours, carrying a 50-pound pack in the hot sun, in order to find a place to stay. We ended up finding a place on the water´s edge that had great common areas open to the sea. It turned into a 3-day vacation that was rather enjoyable. All meals were eaten seaside, I took a couple opportunities to dive off the hotel dock and the juice-bar dock and swim all willy-nilly straight out into the sea. Some Panamanian boys were geared up in snorkel masks to spear and kill the highly poisonous lion fish below the docks. Never one to miss an opportunity to play with the boys I asked to watch. They happily obliged and got me a mask. My ability to hold my breath for the duration of each individual spearing was meager compared to the killer, but it was quite an experience!!!
After a few days of uber-fresh tropical fruit - papayas, mangoes, coconut water, bananas, passion fruit - card games by the water and yoga on platforms overlooking the sea, I was ready to move on. My friend and I parted ways and I made it to my current town called Boquete. It is a delicious little town nestled in the mountains. I did not like the town initially, as is common when I first arrive somewhere, and was planning in advance when to leave. Every place I checked was booked and said there would be no rooms available in town, however, some girls heard me asking and recruited me to stay in their room because there was an extra bed. Nice!
I gave myself time to let the transition sink in, and permission to not need to have a plan, and another new opportunity popped up. I met 2 locals at the local food joint because I had questions on what to order from the buffet-like layout. One thing led to another and they gave me a tour of the town by motorcycle...hilarious! So now I love the place and plan to do some rainforest hiking or mountain biking while I am here, not to mention another bike trip Sunday at 9am.
Tonight there is a parade on the street where everyone gathers to watch for hours. It´s either Christian or Catholic, I can´t tell. All I know is there are huge church-y creations that look very heavy and throngs of people who follow them with loud, somber music blasting from speakers. It reminds me of Peru and makes me nostalgic for that particular trip with Sarah.
Hello Central America, I am here!
I was all prepared to go to Punta Mona, an island off Costa Rica. I woke up in the morning with a fully planned itinerary for the day - my first time this whole trip. But when I looked outside something did not mesh. Yes it was rainy. Yes the town was becoming crowded due to the Semana Santa holiday week. Yes I was sick of closing myself off in order to block out Caribbean men. But none of those were the reasons my plans changed. And I cannot tell you exactly what happened, but I knew there would be something different in store for me.
I checked with the owner of what I thought was a communal living center and as it turned out NO other person besides the housekeeper would be on the island. I couldn´t handle it. Or probably I could have but I decided not to torture myself by going on an unintentional week-long hermitage. So somehow I found myself on the 8:30 bus to the border of Costa Rica, prepared to cross into Panama.
Throughout my whole trip people have questioned how I intended to stay in small Costa Rica for an entire 2 months and it never phased me. I owned it. But somehow I needed to do something different. So there I was, on the bus, with only a general idea of the town I was going to and how long it would take. No lodging, no guide book, no Panamanian currency (U.S. dollars, by the way!).
And I felt FREE.
I struck up a conversation with another traveler and we ended riding his coattails to Bocas del Torro, an island off the coast of Panama. It was quite entertaining to go through customs, which involved crossing a bridge by foot and then waiting in the sun for hours to get stamped. Plus I had to buy a bus ticket out of Panama that is useless - they make you do it to reassure them of your intention to leave.
I eventually made it to the island and wandered the streets with my new friend for a couple hours, carrying a 50-pound pack in the hot sun, in order to find a place to stay. We ended up finding a place on the water´s edge that had great common areas open to the sea. It turned into a 3-day vacation that was rather enjoyable. All meals were eaten seaside, I took a couple opportunities to dive off the hotel dock and the juice-bar dock and swim all willy-nilly straight out into the sea. Some Panamanian boys were geared up in snorkel masks to spear and kill the highly poisonous lion fish below the docks. Never one to miss an opportunity to play with the boys I asked to watch. They happily obliged and got me a mask. My ability to hold my breath for the duration of each individual spearing was meager compared to the killer, but it was quite an experience!!!
After a few days of uber-fresh tropical fruit - papayas, mangoes, coconut water, bananas, passion fruit - card games by the water and yoga on platforms overlooking the sea, I was ready to move on. My friend and I parted ways and I made it to my current town called Boquete. It is a delicious little town nestled in the mountains. I did not like the town initially, as is common when I first arrive somewhere, and was planning in advance when to leave. Every place I checked was booked and said there would be no rooms available in town, however, some girls heard me asking and recruited me to stay in their room because there was an extra bed. Nice!
I gave myself time to let the transition sink in, and permission to not need to have a plan, and another new opportunity popped up. I met 2 locals at the local food joint because I had questions on what to order from the buffet-like layout. One thing led to another and they gave me a tour of the town by motorcycle...hilarious! So now I love the place and plan to do some rainforest hiking or mountain biking while I am here, not to mention another bike trip Sunday at 9am.
Tonight there is a parade on the street where everyone gathers to watch for hours. It´s either Christian or Catholic, I can´t tell. All I know is there are huge church-y creations that look very heavy and throngs of people who follow them with loud, somber music blasting from speakers. It reminds me of Peru and makes me nostalgic for that particular trip with Sarah.
Hello Central America, I am here!
Monday, April 18, 2011
Punta Mona, Costa Rica
Tomorrow I leave for an island off the Caribbean Coast. Punta Mona. It is a place of permaculture, sustainable and communal living. I am tiring of this hot sun and looking forward to go deeper into the rainforest. Be with more organic, down to earth people. As a friend said, not down to earth friendly but down to earth with the land.
I hear that the 3 week mark is a cornerstone for travelers. Either they get into the groove of things or they want to go home. Traveling in this developing country is not much of a hardship so I do not miss any of my usual amenities. However, the change of cities and people every few days leaves me feeling ungrounded, in a spot of internal unknowing. Smiles are a bit harder to come by and I feel guilty to not enjoy every moment.
So life when traveling is still life. Changing emotions and variable degrees of self-knowledge.
A special hello and hugs to family. My thoughts will be with you Easter weekend and for Henry and Asa's baptism.
I will not have internet access for the week I am on Punta Mona. A chance to be with my thoughts instead of checking in with others.
Sending Love!
I hear that the 3 week mark is a cornerstone for travelers. Either they get into the groove of things or they want to go home. Traveling in this developing country is not much of a hardship so I do not miss any of my usual amenities. However, the change of cities and people every few days leaves me feeling ungrounded, in a spot of internal unknowing. Smiles are a bit harder to come by and I feel guilty to not enjoy every moment.
So life when traveling is still life. Changing emotions and variable degrees of self-knowledge.
A special hello and hugs to family. My thoughts will be with you Easter weekend and for Henry and Asa's baptism.
I will not have internet access for the week I am on Punta Mona. A chance to be with my thoughts instead of checking in with others.
Sending Love!
Sunday, April 17, 2011
Caribbean rain
Last night I got caught by a heavy downpour of rain. I had just paid for my skewer of chicken from the roadside bbq and it came pouring down. I hunkered down under a constructed wooden roof with a long slab of wood to wait it out. The bbq cook pulled his stuff under the little hutch next to me and sat down beside me. Conversation started slowly and I was only thinking about getting back to my room to get some sleep. But, luckily, the rain prevented this from happening. And so it happened that I spoke with Louis for an hour and a half on the Caribbean male culture. The prevalence of marijuana, getting with tourist girls as their daily goal, and interest in money - either to be sponsored to get in to the U.S. or to live an easy life supported by a rich girl. It was an eye opening conversation for me, a cultural translation out of simple honesty.
This morning I searched the town for a tiny soda (food joint) where locals were eating, an indicator that the food is good. So, alongside 2 elderly Caribbean men I slowly ate my breakfast. And the rain began again. My 23-year old waiter grabbed a plate of food and joined me at my table. He, too, talked about the male culture here and the primary goals for many of them: money, weed, girls. His father has 23 children, the most recent one born last year, and is 76 years old. Reynoldo grew up in this lifestyle but chooses to work hard every day, forego the party scene, and do what he is passionate about - surfing. Once again, trapped by the rain under a tin roof for 2 hours, I received an honest perspective of the culture here. I am appreciative for the experiences I have, the glimpses into others' lives, though they are quite different from my own.
I feel like I am hiding out in this bigger town, not sticking out so much as I did in the last one. Preparing for a different adventure. I finally found yoga classes and will attend starting tomorrow. It is Semana Santa here, so 3 million of the 5 million Costa Ricans travel to the beaches along the coasts. I am trying to get out before I am enveloped with busy-ness. I hope to spend a week at Punta Mona, a sustainable farming culture on a nearby island, living communally. It will be fun to try on a different life for awhile :)
This morning I searched the town for a tiny soda (food joint) where locals were eating, an indicator that the food is good. So, alongside 2 elderly Caribbean men I slowly ate my breakfast. And the rain began again. My 23-year old waiter grabbed a plate of food and joined me at my table. He, too, talked about the male culture here and the primary goals for many of them: money, weed, girls. His father has 23 children, the most recent one born last year, and is 76 years old. Reynoldo grew up in this lifestyle but chooses to work hard every day, forego the party scene, and do what he is passionate about - surfing. Once again, trapped by the rain under a tin roof for 2 hours, I received an honest perspective of the culture here. I am appreciative for the experiences I have, the glimpses into others' lives, though they are quite different from my own.
I feel like I am hiding out in this bigger town, not sticking out so much as I did in the last one. Preparing for a different adventure. I finally found yoga classes and will attend starting tomorrow. It is Semana Santa here, so 3 million of the 5 million Costa Ricans travel to the beaches along the coasts. I am trying to get out before I am enveloped with busy-ness. I hope to spend a week at Punta Mona, a sustainable farming culture on a nearby island, living communally. It will be fun to try on a different life for awhile :)
Saturday, April 16, 2011
Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica
I have been thinking about all the things I see here in Costa Rica on a daily basis that don't really phase me but that might be interesting to someone not accustomed to traveling. With my last 3 minutes of Internet time I will share a few.
Babies placed on their mom's bicycle handlebars cruising through town
Squished flat crabs and geckos on the street, shapes obvious
People say "ok" in response to Thank You, not You're Welcome - sometimes I think they don't want me to thank them
Occasionally see a sloth or iguana or monkey right outside the open air restaurants I happen to eat in
Tons of mosquito bites so sleep with a net covering me
Churches with loud music until midnight on all nights of the week, when I walk by there are sometimes disco lights flashing inside - wild dancing and a ruckus!
Off I go, by foot, along the main street with Reggae music blasting and the ocean nearby. Saturday night.
Babies placed on their mom's bicycle handlebars cruising through town
Squished flat crabs and geckos on the street, shapes obvious
People say "ok" in response to Thank You, not You're Welcome - sometimes I think they don't want me to thank them
Occasionally see a sloth or iguana or monkey right outside the open air restaurants I happen to eat in
Tons of mosquito bites so sleep with a net covering me
Churches with loud music until midnight on all nights of the week, when I walk by there are sometimes disco lights flashing inside - wild dancing and a ruckus!
Off I go, by foot, along the main street with Reggae music blasting and the ocean nearby. Saturday night.
Friday, April 15, 2011
Cahuita, Costa Rica
I love the idea of writing a long, detailed blog about my daily happenings. But when it comes down to it, I choose sitting in the hammock by the ocean, though my brain is full of fun stories.
I have been on the Caribbean Coast, in Cahuita, for a few days now. It was a difficult transition from the bliss I found in La Fortuna but I have given the place time in order to settle in a little bit. Several times during the day I hear my thoughts saying, Time to Leave, but then something happens and I remain.
Life is funny here. Rasta vibe. The residents yell out to me every time I pass them, Hey Chica, Que Rica, Pretty Girl, My love, Hola, Mi Amor, and more more more. It is so ridiculous that I smile, sometimes laugh based on what is said, give a sideways glance, a Peace sign, and keep moving on. It works for me. I saw a lady earlier today yell at a man to leave her alone. I am pretty sure that I am enjoying the experience more than her. And so you wonder if I am safe. Oddly, because my response is friendly, it takes the charge out of the verbal advances and I am on easy terms with the people of this town. They like to talk about having Good Vibes here. I feel it...but am also pretty sure it is because of all the weed they are smoking.
I am never pressured or hassled to choose a restaurant, a walking companion, or a tour. Everyone offers to be my guide as they see me walking...in and out of town, along the beach, up and down the streets. Lots of thinking time for me.
This morning I went snorkeling for a couple hours. It was not spectacular compared to my previous experiences but it was ok. Having so much alone time and superficial connections with people is difficult at times. But for some reason I stay here and observe my thoughts and feelings. They are kind of like snorkeling. At times I look around and see something beautiful, am filled with excitement, and follow it around for awhile until I blink and cannot find it again. I search for it, swim faster looking around me while my heart pumps steadily. I see it briefly darting behind a rock but cannot quite seem to ever grasp that shared experience again. So I swim onward, kind of bored, waiting for excitement to grab me again. I look for the boat, think about just quitting, as though no better fish is there. But, alas, I breathe and toodle around - taking my time - and when I blink, a different exotic fish comes into focus. He was there all along, I just could not see him, was not ready. That is why I give my experiences time. I absolutely long for the old ones, play them in my mind over and over. But then, when I am just at the point of being ready, a new opportunity is there to behold. Sometimes the new option sucks and I feel bored so I pee in the water.
But I like to think that staying in the water is preparing me for the next great experience. It may not be altogether new but I am closer to it with every moment that passes.
So now I will go into the street to let the stray man who yells across the street, I want to Make Love to You, cut open the FOUR coconuts he insisted on giving me for the bread I gifted him with for dinner.
Pura Vida.
I have been on the Caribbean Coast, in Cahuita, for a few days now. It was a difficult transition from the bliss I found in La Fortuna but I have given the place time in order to settle in a little bit. Several times during the day I hear my thoughts saying, Time to Leave, but then something happens and I remain.
Life is funny here. Rasta vibe. The residents yell out to me every time I pass them, Hey Chica, Que Rica, Pretty Girl, My love, Hola, Mi Amor, and more more more. It is so ridiculous that I smile, sometimes laugh based on what is said, give a sideways glance, a Peace sign, and keep moving on. It works for me. I saw a lady earlier today yell at a man to leave her alone. I am pretty sure that I am enjoying the experience more than her. And so you wonder if I am safe. Oddly, because my response is friendly, it takes the charge out of the verbal advances and I am on easy terms with the people of this town. They like to talk about having Good Vibes here. I feel it...but am also pretty sure it is because of all the weed they are smoking.
I am never pressured or hassled to choose a restaurant, a walking companion, or a tour. Everyone offers to be my guide as they see me walking...in and out of town, along the beach, up and down the streets. Lots of thinking time for me.
This morning I went snorkeling for a couple hours. It was not spectacular compared to my previous experiences but it was ok. Having so much alone time and superficial connections with people is difficult at times. But for some reason I stay here and observe my thoughts and feelings. They are kind of like snorkeling. At times I look around and see something beautiful, am filled with excitement, and follow it around for awhile until I blink and cannot find it again. I search for it, swim faster looking around me while my heart pumps steadily. I see it briefly darting behind a rock but cannot quite seem to ever grasp that shared experience again. So I swim onward, kind of bored, waiting for excitement to grab me again. I look for the boat, think about just quitting, as though no better fish is there. But, alas, I breathe and toodle around - taking my time - and when I blink, a different exotic fish comes into focus. He was there all along, I just could not see him, was not ready. That is why I give my experiences time. I absolutely long for the old ones, play them in my mind over and over. But then, when I am just at the point of being ready, a new opportunity is there to behold. Sometimes the new option sucks and I feel bored so I pee in the water.
But I like to think that staying in the water is preparing me for the next great experience. It may not be altogether new but I am closer to it with every moment that passes.
So now I will go into the street to let the stray man who yells across the street, I want to Make Love to You, cut open the FOUR coconuts he insisted on giving me for the bread I gifted him with for dinner.
Pura Vida.
Thursday, April 14, 2011
my answer to The Question
People ask me every day what I do for fun. I do not drink, smoke, or dance. How could I possibly enjoy life ..question mark, which i cannot find on this spanish keyboard.
I guess the answer is that I smile. I find a way to enjoy the moments. The eating, the walking, the talking.
I hope you know yours!
I guess the answer is that I smile. I find a way to enjoy the moments. The eating, the walking, the talking.
I hope you know yours!
Monday, April 11, 2011
Playing with Ticos
I sit here in a small air conditioned - aka, a fan being on - room to train myself on grabbing a bit more of traditional responsibility. You know, letting you know I am alive and well. But my mind is floating, filled with Spanish, English, poetry and thoughts about where I am going next. Both physically and emotionally. And I am enjoying a coconut flavored sucker. So here I am.
The past week here has been beautiful. Hanging out at the hostel, visiting with the comers and goers. I reclaimed my love of cooking after eating out for 5 days...by cooking beans and rice and chicken - the same thing I was eating out :) But the difference is in being able to share it with my friends. Over good conversation. In Spanish. Or using lengthy statements to properly capture the semantic meaning.
Sundays are my favorite. The day when Ticos (Costa Ricans) take their families and a picnic basket and spend time outside. At the park or the waterfall, or the place I went yesterday - the watering hole. This place had a small waterfall with cold river water running through. I walked there with my Argentinian friend just before noon. Hanging from a large tree was a frazzled rope that has probably been there for ages. My friend helped me ask the locals who were relaxing on the rocks where the safe place to land in the water hole was. I did not want to go based on only a verbal description but luckily a 12 year old boy meandered down from the roadside to use it. He went, Andres went, and then I felt brave about the space to land in. So I grabbed the long stick set on the rocky cliff edge to pull the rope toward me, scrambled up the inclined rock to get some altitude and stood there. Weighing my body and arm strength by pulling on it to see if I could hold myself just using my hands. More people arrived and were chuckling. The only white female - a Gringa...wearing a Betsey Johnson swimsuit...to try this activity amongst the local men and boys. So I leaned back, counted to 3, felt my weight, counted to 3 again, and held on for the ride. It swung wide, far far into the center of the watering hole - way high up - and once there had to simply release. I crashed into the water, not gracefully, with a loud slap and earned myself a red hip from my landing. But it was exhilarating! So up I went, scaled the rock wall and returned. I developed more grace, ease, distance, and twirling across the dozen times I went. In between I would sun on the rocks or take off into a dive from the side of the waterfall from a slow run. Communicated with the Ticos using gestures across the pond - them challenging, me accepting. A delightful day!
Living in the moment can be so rewarding. As we walked back the 2 km to the hostel, Andres and I talked. I was looking for another word in Spanish for love other than Amor because it is unusual to say something like I love my food. He gave me an idea what to say, noted that I am in love with myself, thus overflowing and causing me to love everything I get into. Wisely said, when you are in conflict inside, everything is in conflict in your life. Nothing is fun or happy or clear.
So here I am. Merging love with life. Being seen. Being silly. Being zesty. It is nice to see me. This is the space where it starts. I feel a need to learn a handicraft - to be able to gift others. 3 friends each made me a piece of jewelry. A hemp bracelet tied tight on my left wrist with a beautiful bead and hematite stone from Kenya - grounding and lovely. A copper ring wrapped around my right middle finger - strong and true. A hand tied butterfly anklet residing on my right side - signifying change and emanating love. I am glad to be here, cultivating love in Costa Rica where we are easy like the radio music on Sunday evening.
Tomorrow I go to San Jose.
The past week here has been beautiful. Hanging out at the hostel, visiting with the comers and goers. I reclaimed my love of cooking after eating out for 5 days...by cooking beans and rice and chicken - the same thing I was eating out :) But the difference is in being able to share it with my friends. Over good conversation. In Spanish. Or using lengthy statements to properly capture the semantic meaning.
Sundays are my favorite. The day when Ticos (Costa Ricans) take their families and a picnic basket and spend time outside. At the park or the waterfall, or the place I went yesterday - the watering hole. This place had a small waterfall with cold river water running through. I walked there with my Argentinian friend just before noon. Hanging from a large tree was a frazzled rope that has probably been there for ages. My friend helped me ask the locals who were relaxing on the rocks where the safe place to land in the water hole was. I did not want to go based on only a verbal description but luckily a 12 year old boy meandered down from the roadside to use it. He went, Andres went, and then I felt brave about the space to land in. So I grabbed the long stick set on the rocky cliff edge to pull the rope toward me, scrambled up the inclined rock to get some altitude and stood there. Weighing my body and arm strength by pulling on it to see if I could hold myself just using my hands. More people arrived and were chuckling. The only white female - a Gringa...wearing a Betsey Johnson swimsuit...to try this activity amongst the local men and boys. So I leaned back, counted to 3, felt my weight, counted to 3 again, and held on for the ride. It swung wide, far far into the center of the watering hole - way high up - and once there had to simply release. I crashed into the water, not gracefully, with a loud slap and earned myself a red hip from my landing. But it was exhilarating! So up I went, scaled the rock wall and returned. I developed more grace, ease, distance, and twirling across the dozen times I went. In between I would sun on the rocks or take off into a dive from the side of the waterfall from a slow run. Communicated with the Ticos using gestures across the pond - them challenging, me accepting. A delightful day!
Living in the moment can be so rewarding. As we walked back the 2 km to the hostel, Andres and I talked. I was looking for another word in Spanish for love other than Amor because it is unusual to say something like I love my food. He gave me an idea what to say, noted that I am in love with myself, thus overflowing and causing me to love everything I get into. Wisely said, when you are in conflict inside, everything is in conflict in your life. Nothing is fun or happy or clear.
So here I am. Merging love with life. Being seen. Being silly. Being zesty. It is nice to see me. This is the space where it starts. I feel a need to learn a handicraft - to be able to gift others. 3 friends each made me a piece of jewelry. A hemp bracelet tied tight on my left wrist with a beautiful bead and hematite stone from Kenya - grounding and lovely. A copper ring wrapped around my right middle finger - strong and true. A hand tied butterfly anklet residing on my right side - signifying change and emanating love. I am glad to be here, cultivating love in Costa Rica where we are easy like the radio music on Sunday evening.
Tomorrow I go to San Jose.
Thursday, April 7, 2011
La Fortuna de San Carolos, Costa Rica
Here I am. Staying in a hostel dormitory with 8-beds, called Gringo Petes. Originally I was going to stay here for three days and keep on moving. Luckily, I was intercepted by life and other travelers on the no-plan plan. So here I am 4 days later and in no hurry to leave, which is funny because its not the type of town I expected to stay in. Yes theres a beautiful volcano but not romantic otherwise. There is no beach or free hiking areas or rainforest right outside my window. Rather, its a town full of tourist adventure packages and the type of travelers who want to quick pack in a tour before they hit the road again.
A couple days ago I was feeling a bit caught up in the energy of moving all over the country and even considering going to Panama or Nicaragua like everyone else. After all, I am here for 2 months - what else would/should I do? Enter Rory. He has been here for 2 weeks. My fun these days involves tons of conversation about linguistics (super fun!) and using words that have full meaning and those which accurately express my actual ideas. I could share with you my tale of hiking up the Volcano Cerro Chato through the rain and dense trees but that isnt what keeps me here. I found a space that allows me to meditate in the mornings, nap if I want, and be around people also trying to just be in this space. Its wonderful.
I am one week into my 2-month adventure. I catch myself wondering why I dont stop, take a breath and acknowledge, HERE I am, in Minnesota the way I do here in Costa Rica. This internal space is where the magic happens. I found a Chakra massage therapist and had a session with her yesterday. I feel clear in my head and heart. Tonight I found a small outdoor cafe and asked about making the typical soup so I could buy ingredients. The lady offered to teach me in the cafe kitchen so I will return tomorrow to do so.
I dont feel like updating my blog much. My daily goals consist of simple things like shower, maybe handwash a t-shirt or attend to my blisters, hardboil some eggs, drink coffee with sugar in it, etc. I love the space I am in and am sending this love to you - with high hopes that you are enjoying the space you are in.
Love, hugs, and SMILES!
A couple days ago I was feeling a bit caught up in the energy of moving all over the country and even considering going to Panama or Nicaragua like everyone else. After all, I am here for 2 months - what else would/should I do? Enter Rory. He has been here for 2 weeks. My fun these days involves tons of conversation about linguistics (super fun!) and using words that have full meaning and those which accurately express my actual ideas. I could share with you my tale of hiking up the Volcano Cerro Chato through the rain and dense trees but that isnt what keeps me here. I found a space that allows me to meditate in the mornings, nap if I want, and be around people also trying to just be in this space. Its wonderful.
I am one week into my 2-month adventure. I catch myself wondering why I dont stop, take a breath and acknowledge, HERE I am, in Minnesota the way I do here in Costa Rica. This internal space is where the magic happens. I found a Chakra massage therapist and had a session with her yesterday. I feel clear in my head and heart. Tonight I found a small outdoor cafe and asked about making the typical soup so I could buy ingredients. The lady offered to teach me in the cafe kitchen so I will return tomorrow to do so.
I dont feel like updating my blog much. My daily goals consist of simple things like shower, maybe handwash a t-shirt or attend to my blisters, hardboil some eggs, drink coffee with sugar in it, etc. I love the space I am in and am sending this love to you - with high hopes that you are enjoying the space you are in.
Love, hugs, and SMILES!
Monday, April 4, 2011
Bagaces, Costa Rica
I spent the last 3 days with the family of Veronica P. I took the local bus from the beach into Liberia and learned valuable lessons along the way. First - if you want a spot on the bus take it from the original station because by the time it gets several stops down the road it´s full. Second - if they require you to put your bag in the storage underneath sit on that side of the bus to watch it. People get off every stop and grab bags. This bus ride was the first time I felt really nervous about traveling. Unknown destination, unknown friend to be meeting, unknown everything. I sat there thinking, now THIS is an adventure! Veronica met me at the station and we took another bus to her hometown. I held my 50 lb pack on my lap because the bus was packed and had less than an inch to breath - I couldn´t even turn my head because there wasn´t space for my nose. Plus I had to prop it up with my hand so it didn´t fall on the lady next to me, man I was sweating for that 45 minutes! Sarah, I still can´t fully understand your Nepali experience on the bus in the heat - what a trial.
In Bagaces I was welcomed warmly by the family. I love small towns because they´re off the beaten path and allow me to relax instead of searching for things to do. I enjoyed the typical Costa Rican food, which is rice and beans at every meal with the addition of a little meat at lunch and meat plus salad at dinner. The kitchen is one of my favorite places to connect with people. It was cozy to help cut veggies and wash dishes and just share space together. The parents didn´t speak English so I was challenged to not only find vocabulary to communicate with them but to put the whole message together when they spoke. The speaking style is very rapid and the last syllable of every word usually gets dropped off so sentences are a slur. My brain tunes out conversation in order to rest so often I was caught unawares by someone sharply yelling - Samantha! It´s getting better though, in 2 months I should be a pro :)
Veronica and I went to a local waterfall and swam around one of the days. Funny that girls in their 20´s all over the world have the same problems, and therefore conversations - families, boyfriends, figuring out their own rules in life. I loved the one on one time just being girls together. Then we hiked to the top of the falls over leaves and hot, sharp rocks. I picked up a few thorns in my feet and blisters but it was a new experience that I appreciated sharing. When we finished and returned home we hung out with the family where people randomly stopped by. The main information I always have to share is where I´m from, where I´m going, if I like Costa Rica and if I´m married. Of course, not being married, I´m always asked how I feel about Latin men - ha!
Yesterday we all packed into the car and drove to hours to visit Uncle. He lives closer to the Pacific Coast and had a friend who is caretaking a beautiful vacation property that was empty. So we went there and swam. I dove in and before I knew it was teaching the other 4 20-somethings and Uncle how to dive. It was hilarious because I had to make up levels of poco, medio and grande to ease into the technique. It brought lots of laughter! We set up races for me and boy Cousin and I won several times in a row. The girls got a kick out of it and his pride was a little hurt so after awhile he wanted to race again. I teased him about wanting to lose, which I highly enjoyed because joking is one of those things lost in translation for me. We went 3 more times and each time I won by a greater distance. To save face he changed the game to race underwater without breathing. If you´re family you know we did this all the time growing up and won´t be surprised to hear I swam the entire length and won. The girls highly enjoyed this, giggling all along, but he was a great sport.
This morning I left Bagaces by catching a bus into the center of town. Unfortunately, the next bus I caught in the wrong direction so lost 2 hours in the round trip. Then I had to catch 2 more buses to get to my destination of La Fortuna de San Carlos. Transition days have some difficulty for me. I don´t mind riding the bus all day but there´s the new unknowing of my next destination, lodging and plan. But, it allows me to live in the moment and observe all the things around me. Before my final bus I met 2 other backpackers and we visited for 30 minutes over lunch. It was so nice to meet like-minded people. When talking, they made the important distinction between traveling and being on vacation. Clearly, what I´m doing is traveling, and it´s something I love! When we parted, I received my first hugs in over a week from them. That´s what I´m missing today. Otherwise, time keeps rolling on and so will I. I feel calm and content, am well fed, healthy and strong.
Sending love and HUGS. Hasta luego!
In Bagaces I was welcomed warmly by the family. I love small towns because they´re off the beaten path and allow me to relax instead of searching for things to do. I enjoyed the typical Costa Rican food, which is rice and beans at every meal with the addition of a little meat at lunch and meat plus salad at dinner. The kitchen is one of my favorite places to connect with people. It was cozy to help cut veggies and wash dishes and just share space together. The parents didn´t speak English so I was challenged to not only find vocabulary to communicate with them but to put the whole message together when they spoke. The speaking style is very rapid and the last syllable of every word usually gets dropped off so sentences are a slur. My brain tunes out conversation in order to rest so often I was caught unawares by someone sharply yelling - Samantha! It´s getting better though, in 2 months I should be a pro :)
Veronica and I went to a local waterfall and swam around one of the days. Funny that girls in their 20´s all over the world have the same problems, and therefore conversations - families, boyfriends, figuring out their own rules in life. I loved the one on one time just being girls together. Then we hiked to the top of the falls over leaves and hot, sharp rocks. I picked up a few thorns in my feet and blisters but it was a new experience that I appreciated sharing. When we finished and returned home we hung out with the family where people randomly stopped by. The main information I always have to share is where I´m from, where I´m going, if I like Costa Rica and if I´m married. Of course, not being married, I´m always asked how I feel about Latin men - ha!
Yesterday we all packed into the car and drove to hours to visit Uncle. He lives closer to the Pacific Coast and had a friend who is caretaking a beautiful vacation property that was empty. So we went there and swam. I dove in and before I knew it was teaching the other 4 20-somethings and Uncle how to dive. It was hilarious because I had to make up levels of poco, medio and grande to ease into the technique. It brought lots of laughter! We set up races for me and boy Cousin and I won several times in a row. The girls got a kick out of it and his pride was a little hurt so after awhile he wanted to race again. I teased him about wanting to lose, which I highly enjoyed because joking is one of those things lost in translation for me. We went 3 more times and each time I won by a greater distance. To save face he changed the game to race underwater without breathing. If you´re family you know we did this all the time growing up and won´t be surprised to hear I swam the entire length and won. The girls highly enjoyed this, giggling all along, but he was a great sport.
This morning I left Bagaces by catching a bus into the center of town. Unfortunately, the next bus I caught in the wrong direction so lost 2 hours in the round trip. Then I had to catch 2 more buses to get to my destination of La Fortuna de San Carlos. Transition days have some difficulty for me. I don´t mind riding the bus all day but there´s the new unknowing of my next destination, lodging and plan. But, it allows me to live in the moment and observe all the things around me. Before my final bus I met 2 other backpackers and we visited for 30 minutes over lunch. It was so nice to meet like-minded people. When talking, they made the important distinction between traveling and being on vacation. Clearly, what I´m doing is traveling, and it´s something I love! When we parted, I received my first hugs in over a week from them. That´s what I´m missing today. Otherwise, time keeps rolling on and so will I. I feel calm and content, am well fed, healthy and strong.
Sending love and HUGS. Hasta luego!
Friday, April 1, 2011
Playas del Coco, Pacific Coast
Hola! Get ready for an email that does not contain contractions because I can not figure out how to access the apostrophe sign on this keyboard. I had to finally ask for help to learn the @ symbol just to log-in, apparently the Spanish version is pressing Alt and then 64. Goodbye ergonomics, this keyboard is at chest level. Good times.
I arrived in Liberia, Costa Rica at noon Wed 3-30. My first thought stepping off the plane into the sun was, I am going to need more sunblock. Luckily I will not need to buy any for a couple weeks though - it costs $20 for a tube. My couchsurfing host, Linda T, picked me up and drove me to her house. The CS program is neat. You create profiles online and find local people to host you. It is NOT a hotel though - something is always exchanged in the deal, whether it is cooking, companionship, or something else, it is a program that connects people not a free ride. This retired lady, originally from Kentucky, likes the company. I tend to be pretty independent so I am good for an hour or two verbal recap at night then off to bed early so I can get up and outside early the next morning.
This town, Playa del Cocos, has many retired Americans living in condos. It is not gorgeous like you may think from looking online, although there is the ocean, which meets my first need here. Thurs 3-31 I borrowed Linda,s (guess i will use commas instead) bike and strolled around town and the side roads all day. I found a Ciclo to put air in the tires so I could ride the rocky dirt paths off the main road. When asked what they charge I apparently just need to smile in return - and sometimes take off my sunglasses to show my blue eyes. Funny to be traveling with only a handful of outfits and short cropped hair, not thinking about my appearance at all, and it still all boils down to flirting down here. Somehow I will manage :)
I spent several hours sitting in the shade by myself on the beach, ate a traditional Costa Rican casado (rice, beans, meat, veggies) and biked to a more isolated beach spot. Throughout the day I visited with locals that approached me and we had a good time practicing between our languages. I finally went swimming around 3pm and played with a guy in the ocean who wanted to race me. He was pretty surprised when I smoked him - thank you waterpolo team in college! So just hanging out and playing down here.
Tonight I take the bus into Liberia and meet a gal who will travel with me to a small town called Bagaces to stay with her family. I am hoping to become more immersed in the family life style and do some cooking with them.
A special thank you to my dear cousin Becky Jean for the chapstick and advice - I used your advice twice now...and ignored it once :)
Traveling notes:
Travelers checks do not work here. I spent an hour on the phone cancelling them and then mailing them back to the US.
Carrying hard boiled eggs in a hard camping container is perfect for easy protein, especially when you are not sure when and where your next meal will occur.
Vegetable and corn oil are it here, sorry olive oil...and my stomach.
The water from the tap here is drinkable - hooray for that and being able to eat the fruit!
I arrived in Liberia, Costa Rica at noon Wed 3-30. My first thought stepping off the plane into the sun was, I am going to need more sunblock. Luckily I will not need to buy any for a couple weeks though - it costs $20 for a tube. My couchsurfing host, Linda T, picked me up and drove me to her house. The CS program is neat. You create profiles online and find local people to host you. It is NOT a hotel though - something is always exchanged in the deal, whether it is cooking, companionship, or something else, it is a program that connects people not a free ride. This retired lady, originally from Kentucky, likes the company. I tend to be pretty independent so I am good for an hour or two verbal recap at night then off to bed early so I can get up and outside early the next morning.
This town, Playa del Cocos, has many retired Americans living in condos. It is not gorgeous like you may think from looking online, although there is the ocean, which meets my first need here. Thurs 3-31 I borrowed Linda,s (guess i will use commas instead) bike and strolled around town and the side roads all day. I found a Ciclo to put air in the tires so I could ride the rocky dirt paths off the main road. When asked what they charge I apparently just need to smile in return - and sometimes take off my sunglasses to show my blue eyes. Funny to be traveling with only a handful of outfits and short cropped hair, not thinking about my appearance at all, and it still all boils down to flirting down here. Somehow I will manage :)
I spent several hours sitting in the shade by myself on the beach, ate a traditional Costa Rican casado (rice, beans, meat, veggies) and biked to a more isolated beach spot. Throughout the day I visited with locals that approached me and we had a good time practicing between our languages. I finally went swimming around 3pm and played with a guy in the ocean who wanted to race me. He was pretty surprised when I smoked him - thank you waterpolo team in college! So just hanging out and playing down here.
Tonight I take the bus into Liberia and meet a gal who will travel with me to a small town called Bagaces to stay with her family. I am hoping to become more immersed in the family life style and do some cooking with them.
A special thank you to my dear cousin Becky Jean for the chapstick and advice - I used your advice twice now...and ignored it once :)
Traveling notes:
Travelers checks do not work here. I spent an hour on the phone cancelling them and then mailing them back to the US.
Carrying hard boiled eggs in a hard camping container is perfect for easy protein, especially when you are not sure when and where your next meal will occur.
Vegetable and corn oil are it here, sorry olive oil...and my stomach.
The water from the tap here is drinkable - hooray for that and being able to eat the fruit!
Tuesday, March 29, 2011
11 hours before take-off
When people hear I'm traveling alone they express one of two things, either that the idea terrifies them (and therefore should terrify me) or that they are jealous and wish they could do the same (to which I always reply, you can!).
Preparing for a 2-month adventure takes a lot of planning. And while I'm good at planning, I'm not so good at executing things ahead of time. So the last 5 days have been a whirlwind for me. Amidst all the purchasing of supplies, cutting of hair, trying on of clothes, buying of food, cleaning of house, and paying of bills I have had brief moments of stopping to enjoy the process. And this is what I discovered....
As independent as I am, I have deep love and gratitude for these people, for without them it wouldn't have happened. I believe everyone needs:
A Sarah to borrow an extensive packing list from, as well as a camera memory card.
A Donald to fix the computer when it deleted everything from the iPod 24 hours before departure.
A Senia to lend emotional support and encouragement with love and excitement.
An Alina to really understand where you're coming from and offer full acceptance.
A Mom who keeps it light even though she's worried. One who waters the plants, checks on the condo, brings you to the airport at 3am, alters your clothing at the last-minute ("by the way"), and gives extra hugs and love.
A Dad who reminds you of how to be safe and lets you go even though he doesn't want to.
A Business Coach who helps you understand the world is yours if you so choose.
A Chiropractor who boosts your system so you are healthy and full of energy and happiness.
A Book Club who shares in the excitement and truly, truly loves and supports your decisions.
A host of cousins and friends who send their love and give guidance in Faith so you're never alone.
A Stylist who cuts your hair (again) so that it's just right for traveling.
When people ask how I can travel alone I just smile and say, "I'm never alone."
I love you guys!
Preparing for a 2-month adventure takes a lot of planning. And while I'm good at planning, I'm not so good at executing things ahead of time. So the last 5 days have been a whirlwind for me. Amidst all the purchasing of supplies, cutting of hair, trying on of clothes, buying of food, cleaning of house, and paying of bills I have had brief moments of stopping to enjoy the process. And this is what I discovered....
As independent as I am, I have deep love and gratitude for these people, for without them it wouldn't have happened. I believe everyone needs:
A Sarah to borrow an extensive packing list from, as well as a camera memory card.
A Donald to fix the computer when it deleted everything from the iPod 24 hours before departure.
A Senia to lend emotional support and encouragement with love and excitement.
An Alina to really understand where you're coming from and offer full acceptance.
A Mom who keeps it light even though she's worried. One who waters the plants, checks on the condo, brings you to the airport at 3am, alters your clothing at the last-minute ("by the way"), and gives extra hugs and love.
A Dad who reminds you of how to be safe and lets you go even though he doesn't want to.
A Business Coach who helps you understand the world is yours if you so choose.
A Chiropractor who boosts your system so you are healthy and full of energy and happiness.
A Book Club who shares in the excitement and truly, truly loves and supports your decisions.
A host of cousins and friends who send their love and give guidance in Faith so you're never alone.
A Stylist who cuts your hair (again) so that it's just right for traveling.
When people ask how I can travel alone I just smile and say, "I'm never alone."
I love you guys!
Thursday, March 24, 2011
One week before - an intro
I am going to Costa Rica. For 8 weeks. By myself. And I invite you to join in the fun and adventure of it all!
I hear you hesitating, having confused thoughts. Alone? For 8 weeks? What for?
I also feel you wondering about my blog title, things such as: Is she joining a commune? What is she searching for? Will she come back?
To all these questions I smile...and laugh. The purpose of this trip is to live in accordance with my adventurous spirit. 8 weeks is long enough to feel a sort of dissociation from my current life in order to return refreshed and inspired. By going alone I will hold my experiences deep inside myself without needing others' approval, they are truly for me. Yes, I will return.
We all have our own definition about happiness and look for ways to fulfill our lives. Mine is through joyful and vibrant experiences, both large and small. Lets have fun!
I hear you hesitating, having confused thoughts. Alone? For 8 weeks? What for?
I also feel you wondering about my blog title, things such as: Is she joining a commune? What is she searching for? Will she come back?
To all these questions I smile...and laugh. The purpose of this trip is to live in accordance with my adventurous spirit. 8 weeks is long enough to feel a sort of dissociation from my current life in order to return refreshed and inspired. By going alone I will hold my experiences deep inside myself without needing others' approval, they are truly for me. Yes, I will return.
We all have our own definition about happiness and look for ways to fulfill our lives. Mine is through joyful and vibrant experiences, both large and small. Lets have fun!
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